adventures

salzburg + hallstatt

our second honeymoon stop was salzburg, where we engaged in extreme tourism by way of a sound of music tour, fancy wieners in hidden alleys, and mozart kugel! that fancy wiener part sounds dirtier than it is. we really just found this great hidden sausage stand that shakes a bunch of curry on your wiener and people stand in a cronut-sized line for them (so i guess it isn't actually that hidden). 

but let us discuss the cuteness that is salzburg! salzburg is like whoville and disneyland with a large emphasis on cake and chocolate. i loved it so much. and what's even greater is that it's not even really trying that hard to be cute, it is o.g. cute because it's been like that for hundreds and hundreds of years. we went to a restaurant that was 1200 years old and a bakery that was 800 years old. can you even imagine 1200 years ago?! i can't, i just get flashbacks of failing my gregorian chant tests in first-year music history. for the record i did inquire about that bakery's sourdough starter (what is the german word for starter?) but alas their starter is not 800 years old. 

our sound of music tour was everything we dreamed it would be! we frolicked down the path where maria sings "i have confidence" and ate cake in a cafe right next to the church where they got married. eggboy asked if the von trapps really walked across the alps to switzerland, and our tour guide informed us that, no, they just walked 600 meters to the train station. it all suddenly became clear but i'm pretty sure that eggboy would have loved an x-treme sound of music tour requiring a days-long hike through the alps. 

we spent one afternoon in the little lakeside town of hallstatt, about an hour outside of salzburg. we felt like we were in a postcard the entire time. it's so pretty and it has the coolest history. it is home to the oldest salt mine in the world and up until recently, it was only accessible by boat. it kind of reminded me of being on catalina island. a schnitzel-scented catalina island, because of a waterfront schnitzel and sausage stand. not that i'm complaining or anything.


here are some places in salzburg that we loved!

schatz konditorei // this place is hidden in an alley and it might be the cutest bakery of all time. it's the definition of cozy and it sells the cutest colorful cakes. seriously, it is the bakery of my dreams. 

café tomaselli // even though it's pretty young by salzburg standards (only 150 years old!), it's a total institution. i guess mozart drank almond milk there?? if you go, take a peak into the upstairs room, it is so beautiful, i can see why people are regulars. 

cafe-konditorei fürst // ok, yes, we spent about three days in salzburg and this is the third bakery i'm listing, and we went to all of these places multiple times, so do you see why i only packed stretchy pants. but we had to go to this one, it's home to the original mozartkugel!

stiftsbackerei st. peter // this is the 800 year old bakery! it's the bread bakery for the st. peter monastery and it has the fluffiest brioche and the most fantastic smells.

st. peter stiftskeller // the oldest restaurant in the world. it's connected to the same monastery as the stiftsbackerei and we came here for valentine's day. i have to admit, we kept getting distracted trying to envision what it would have looked like 1200 years ago and placing bets on where mozart sat.

hotel goldener hirsch // this place was our cozy oasis in the middle of old town salzburg. it oozes with character and has the most amazing traditional decor. i'm so glad we stayed there. 

restaurant s'herzl // this is one of the restaurants connected to the goldener hirsch, and i had one of my favorite meals of hour whole trip there. goulash with knödel! eggboy got the schnitzel so i tasted some of his, but i don't know, i think goulash was the surprise winner of my heart for this trip.

augustiner bräu // it's a massive beer hall inside a monastery. if i ever decide to become a monk, you'll know where to find me. 

balkan grill // this is the alleyway sausage place i mentioned above. toasty buns, lots of curry, two sausages to a bun. it's so good, it makes me want to shake a bunch of curry onto everything.

bob's tours // this was the tour company we used for the sound of music tour and the hallstatt tour and they were great! we took both tours on a sunday which worked out really well since not a whole lot of businesses are open on sundays. 

gmundner keramik // we didn't buy a whole lot of souvenirs, but we did buy some little dishes from this company, which has been in business since 1492. our hotel had these ceramics everywhere and i loved them so much, so we figured this would be a perfect place to get some little mementos. 

-yeh!

vienna

i woke up at four this morning with all of the jet-lag! oh man, i am a sleepy sally and it appears that not even any amount of ina garten making eton mess for alex baldwin in the tv will keep me awake right now. 

since four this morning i have drank many espressos, done an enormous amount of laundry, arranged all of eggboy's guidebooks and souvenirs on his desk, bought lots of vegetables to make up for only eating salami and schnitzel and cake and knödel the past two weeks, and placed a new baking soda in the refrigerator because i brought home pinzgau cheese which is so outrageously smelly, it's a good thing our closest neighbors are cats.

above are all of my favorite photos from the first stop on our honeymoon, vienna! our days in vienna began with the doughiest tastiest bread and the creamiest scrambled eggs at our little b&b, which played a continuous soundtrack of waltzes. from there, we went and introduced ourselves to our favorite composer statues, conducted daily cake research, and spent the time with schnitzel that schnitzel deserves. we explored the naschmarkt and the opera hall, and one day on the outskirts of the city, we went bonkers when we came across the apartment that beethoven lived in when he wrote his second symphony. we didn't know how we could top that the next day, but then we ate at a restaurant with a cheese library and a bread sommelier, so there was that! 

the german that i learned in high school came back to me bit by bit and i was able to order a sacher torte and salami pizza on pizza night. every so often we'd see a sign or a plaque from which we could safely assume that, oh, mozart must have walked down this road, or oh, maybe mahler was here. it was really quite magical.


here are some places in vienna that we loved! (thank you sooo much to all of those who sent recommendations!!!)

 

cafe demel // we shared an esterhazy torte in a grand room with a huge chandelier and it felt so fancy. there's a big window to the kitchen so you can watch the bakers decorate all of the cakes. i could have stayed there all day!

trzesniewski // tasty little open faced sandwiches with pickles and eggs and bacon.

mayer am pfarrplatz // a winery on the outskirts of vienna, right where beethoven spent a few summers! i kept stealing bites of eggboy's spätzle, it was so good.

joseph // the most amazing bread. so doughy and chewy and flavorful... it left me speechless.

spiess & spiess // our cute little b & b in a quiet residential part of vienna, with a cute little courtyard and perfect scrambled eggs. 

if dogs run free // we had drinks and became the most hipster versions of ourselves.

steirereck // it's a restaurant in a park with a cheese library, a bread sommelier, a chocolate course, and an indoor herb garden. it was like eating at a tasty museum! i loved it so much. (thanks, pops!! :)

figlmüller // where schnitzel dreams come true.


-yeh!


the egg girl (an aquavit & rosemary cocktail) + scenes from our little married life

my first weekend as a married lady was a lot like sunday afternoons in the juilliard dorm when we were just too hungover to drum. it included a lot of buttered toast and a lot of oh, just one more office episode! not having a wedding to plan or a wedding dress to fit into has yielded things like many many cheesy pickles with our new volleyball team (we are called the cheesy pickles), three batches of vanilla cake, a loaf of bread baked by eggboy (!?!!?), and an impromptu adventure to the woods outside of duluth.  

our little trip came right after the wedding when our hangovers turned into colds and our last out of town guests had departed. we downloaded all of serial, packed our bathing suits, and set off for the cutest lodge we could find that had a sauna. there we stayed until 2015, when we decided that we had better explore downtown duluth. and oh, for cute! i wanted to put it in my pocket and bring it home. we watched boats go by and met a very funny moose. we ate bison pastrami and elk burgers and local string cheese, and then washed it all down with a lumbersexual at emily's amazing distillery. it was approximately zero degrees but it's ok i had my husband to keep me warm (*sorry* that was mushy overload). it was the perfect preview of our honeymoon next month, titled mr. and mrs. egg don't do anything for two weeks except eat schnitzel and look at alps.

upon our return, we cleaned and stressed out about serial and then segued into the aforementioned lazy lady weekend. life as a married person is actually kind of pretty much the same, just with less ikea dishes and more fancy things like a smeg toaster and vitamix blender. so what i'm really trying to say is, my first nine days as a married person were everything i wanted them to be.

ok! i made a cocktail about myself. we did that thing at our wedding where we had his and hers drinks except eggboy's was just glenlivet neat, so that's why there's no recipe for an eggboy. (side note: thoughts on the space between egg and girl? egggirl looks like it was a mistake and eggirl actually is a mistake so, um, never mind...) we tossed around so many ideas for what our drinks could be. his: chamomile tea, hers: a shot of vodka. his: lemon water, hers: cake batter. his: spinach, hers: hot dog water... 

rosemary obviously played a huge part in our wedding. we had a rosemary girl instead of a flower girl, the boutonnieres were made out of rosemary, and then, yes, this rosemary cocktail emerged as the one for me. we chose to have aquavit in it as a nod to eggboy's norwegian heritage, and we specifically chose vikre's aquavit because it comes from minnesota and the distillery is owned by emily, the lady behind five and spice and one of my most faaaavorite food52 columns, and her husband, joel. they are the coolest!!! i was able to personally thank them for my wedding hangover when we were in duluth, and holy smokes, they are treasure troves of knowledge when it comes to distilling. the caraway in their aquavit is super strong and wonderful, it made the perfect partner to all of the challah and prosciutto that i scarfed down at the start of the cocktail hour. and the rosemary syrup is one of the easiest things to make. 

the next time you're feeling blah because it's january, a.k.a. the monday of months, whip one of these up and you'll be good!


the egg girl

makes 1

fill a glass with ice

add 1 ounce aquavit,

1/2 ounce rosemary syrup (see below),

and fill to the top with fizzy water.

garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a twist of orange peel

 

rosemary simple syrup

whisk together 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water, add 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, and simmer for 15 minutes.


-yeh!

lefse!

the other day, i was at the town boutique trying on a sprinkle sweater when britney spears started singing from my phone and, mostly as a reaction to my embarrassment and wanting that ringtone to stop (eggboy, please change my ringtone, ok thanks!!!), i picked it up immediately. on the other end was his jolliness sam sifton, who said something to effect of, hey! i was thinking i'd come over to make some lefse! and i thought holy poopcakes!

what followed was one of the most memorable weeks of my life, but only after i could annoy poor miss ethel a few times because contrary to what you'd think based on her perfect performance on camera, she had been adamant about not even being in the presence of a reporter. and i was a pushy patty.

(it all worked out in the end because that sam can really charm.)

for a few days, we covered ourselves in flour and rolled in potato fields and it was all so unreal because when i lived in new york, i'd sit at my little desk and count the seconds until sam's restaurant reviews would come online, and then i'd savor every last word. i may have moved on to marilyn's turf, but sam will always be one of my favorites :) 

i loved having him and the amazing sweet video crew from the times here, they were my first visitors from brooklyn! after our shoot, we celebrated with venison and hotdish, and then eggboy and eggdad took the crew on a workshop tour. they got a little welding lesson and at some point i think sam drove a tractor, which was practice for when we hire him for beet harvest. hehe.

anywho, i've received the sweetest messages from so many of you guys about the video and i want to hug all of you!! if you haven't seen it, here it is! the recipe for ethel's lefse is here. happy lefse season, everyone!!

-yeh!

some of these photos were taken by one of the wonderful crew members, eric moran. check out his site, his photos are amazing!!!!!